A Better Looking Pioneer

My original Heritage Park issued pioneer dress was giving me major problems over the past two weeks.  There is nothing like the Velcro (not very authentic) coming undone and me losing my skirt.  Thank goodness for a petticoat.  :)  So on Monday, I went in and exchanged my blue dress to a much better looking one. Still not a completely period accurate dress, but it fits me so much better and I personally feel it looks better.

My arms are not that large, this is the style of sleeve chosen for this dress.  Here I am wearing a day cap.  Used often by pioneer women inside their houses to keep their hair clean longer or to keep people from seeing their dirty hair.  I am wearing it because my short hair is not period. 

With my UGLY bonnet.  A pioneer woman would have never left her house without a bonnet or hat so I wear it over the day cap when I'm going out into the village.

Some day I would love to save up and get some much better and accurate clothing.  I personally find many of the dresses used at the park either not completely accurate, or so worn that they should be used for rags.  I think that Heritage Park would be so much more fascinating to the public, if the Pioneers looked like Pioneers.  Any why do they call them pioneers?  The park is set in the 1860 to 1870 which is at the very end of the Utah Pioneer movement and even when they reached the valley they still tried to dress their best no matter what their circumstances were.  Either way, I am still really enjoying the experience.

Here is a dress and accessory that would be fun.

The Colonel's Lady Civil War Attire  Love this one!

McCall's Costume Pattern-- 1860 Garments by Glenda  I also like the lace collar and brooch. 

 I'm not too sure yet on the 'actual pioneer bonnet'.  I believe those were worn when the pioneers crossed the plains or on the frontier while working.  I think many people forget that pioneer women, even though they are living during a hard time, did all they could to look nice.  Think about all the beautiful china, lace, embroidery, furniture, etc.  Naturally their means would make a difference.

Necktie to hold my lovey cameo on -- 1860 Garments by Glenda 

Reticule/Purse  1860 Garments by Glenda 

Of course there is the whole matter of underpinnings (under garments) that I don't think I'll get into, but it's been interesting to find out what pioneer women really wore.  Many even on their long treks across the American Plains wore several petticoats and many layers of underclothing.  There are journal entries saying they entered the valley with only 3 petticoats left, the rest had been used during the trek for bandages and such.  Can you imagine?

How to dress?  From The Lady's General

Dressing authentically starts with your underpinnings.  

1. Pantalets:   This garment is what we would categorize as underwear.  The pantalets of the era were spit from front to back enabling a lady  to go to the necessary.  (Bathroom)
2. Chemise :    This is somewhat like a night gown.  They could be plain or decorative depending on the financial means of the lady.  The garment protects the corset from body oils and absorbs moisture.  They are usually large fitting and hemmed mid calf.
3. Socks and shoes:   These items should be put on prior to your corset.
4. Corset:    This should be a well made and correctly fitted.  A corset is comfortable as well as flattering to the figure.  A proper fitted corset will be 2 inches smaller than your actual bust size, 2-4 inches smaller than your waist and 2 inches smaller than your hips.
5. Privacy slip :   This is a under slip fastened at the waist and hemmed just above the ankle.  The garment was worn to protect  the lady from embarrassment in the event she was upheavals. (Remember, your pantalets are split!)
6. Hoop slip:    Another word for Crinoline.  A crinoline is the distinguishable under garment of the era giving the gowns their fullness without the need of many petticoats.  A hoop slip was fashioned typically from steel hoops.  Hoop slips should not be worn near or around open camp fires. (Nicol making a note here:  Some women did not wear the hoop slips but a corded slip.  I'll put a photo of one below.)
7. Over slip :   This slip was made very full and could be plain or very decorative.  It's function was to hide the hoop rounds in the hoop slip.  A properly attired lady would never have her hoop  rings showing through her gown.

Ladies, all these items are worn before putting on under sleeves and gowns!  The whole purpose was to protect the gowns from body oils and perspiration.  This manor of dress also kept the ladies cool in summer and warm in winter.

Chemise and stockings held up by garters 

Pantalets or Split Drawers

Chemise and Corset.  

Privacy Slip

Hoop Skirt 

Corded Slip or Corded Petticoat 

Overslip or Petticoat    Depending on the time of year, women would wear 3 to 7 petticoats.

So there you have it.  How to dress like a better looking pioneer.